News on Mount Everest

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SummitPost.org

Climbing, hiking, mountaineering forum

by ExcitableBoy (Posted Wed, 20 Sep 2017 15:40:59 GMT)
You should not insulate the canister. As gas leaves the canister, it cools off. Insulating makes this problem worse. Instead, place the canister in a shallow pan and occasionally dribble warm water over it from the pot.

I have a Pocket Rocket and have played around with ways of improving efficiency. Here is what I have done:

-Made a simple heat exchanger by crimping an MSR wind screen so that it fits tightly around the pot. This funnels heat up the sides of the pot. The heat exchanger also reflects heat back onto the pot if I am not using a remote stove stand which helps keep it warm in cold weather.
-Found a tall, 1 liter, black anodized aluminum pot. I think the shape, color, and metal are the most efficient for heat conduction.
-In cool weather I place the canister in a dish of warm water
-I sleep with the canister

I have tried using chemical hand warmers taped to the canister as well as the old trick of wrapping 1/4" copper tubing around the canister and poking one end into the flame. I determined that simply dribbling warm water over the canister worked the best to keep the stove going in cold temperatures. In really cold temperatures (Cascades in winter, AK Range in spring) I use a white gas stove.

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Posted: September 20, 2017, 3:40 pm
by Woodie Hopper (Posted Wed, 20 Sep 2017 14:33:39 GMT)
You could certainly do it, but there is a very high chance you could get AMS and be pretty sick too unless you spend some time up high acclimating more than you mentioned above. Depending on other commitments you have during your visit I would suggest doing a lower climb (or two) first such as La Malinche, Nevado de Toluca or Iztaccihuatl. I soloed Izta + Orizaba several years ago, and a few years ago returned to guide friends up NdT, Izta + Orizaba. None of us had altitude problems, but we live a little above sea level in Denver. You will enjoy the climb more if you find a way to get another peak in. I actually enjoyed Izta much more than Orizaba.

Also, I would consider taking Diamox. Some suggest taking 600mg Ibuprofen prior to climbing, but that only prevents the headache which could mask the early symptoms of AMS which you need to recognize early to avoid getting really sick should you develop it.

I went in January and February which was nice both times I went there. It wasn't too cold, maybe a little below 0 C, but could be windy.

I believe you can rent crampons and maybe a bag with the outfitters you mentioned. Your best chance to climb with a group is likely by making arrangements prior to arriving in Tlachichuca.

Best wishes,

Woodie

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Posted: September 20, 2017, 2:33 pm
by Stu Brandel (Posted Wed, 20 Sep 2017 13:05:09 GMT)
Please make them stop, somebody. They are extremely aggravating.

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Posted: September 20, 2017, 1:05 pm
by McCannster (Posted Wed, 20 Sep 2017 06:37:04 GMT)
I'm surprised nobody has mentioned C.W. McCall yet. (edit, someone did) He was once the mayor of Ouray a while back. Most of his songs mention Colorado and the mountains in it; check out the songs Four Wheel Drive, Black Bear Road, Wolf Creek Pass, The Silverton Train, and Comin' back For More (About Alfred Packer).

The bluegrass band Yonder Mountain String Band (from Nederland) have many Colorado themed songs, check out Half Moon Rising, and 40 Miles From Denver.

Surfin Colorado by Robert Burkhardt is another good one.

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Posted: September 20, 2017, 6:37 am
by Twills (Posted Wed, 20 Sep 2017 02:14:22 GMT)
Just got some good news.

My book is not out officially until Oct. 15 but we rushed some copies to the judges at the Banff Film and Book Festival (barely made the deadline) and the book made the short list.

Scroll down to “2017 Category Finalists”:

https://www.banffcentre.ca/banff-mounta ... ompetition

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Posted: September 20, 2017, 2:14 am
by Yank-Tank (Posted Wed, 20 Sep 2017 01:56:16 GMT)
It really depends if you are planning on climbing snow or ice. Sometimes snow turns to ice in the morning so one is unable to kick steps in without crampons, which is another debate again. But when you are dealing with snow, you can usually get good foot holds enabling safe and more secure balance, which can make you feel safe in terrain that you would need a rope on if it were ice.

So, 95% of the time you should be able to climb unroped in as steep as the terrain that you are in holds snow (don't get confused between snow and ice here), which seems to vary alot from area to area. Except in some places like the Andes where the Mountains are famous for holding snow in far steeper terrain than the norm.

Ps as for non glaciated snow slopes, you can and should rope eachother across avalanche start zones in certain conditions.

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Posted: September 20, 2017, 1:56 am
by McCannster (Posted Tue, 19 Sep 2017 23:12:21 GMT)
Two days ago, for the first time in recent history, Mount Umunhum was fully opened to public access. This has of course altered the character of the mountain, so I have updated the page to reflect this. New photos show the difference pre opening and post opening.

http://www.summitpost.org/mount-umunhum/153994

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Posted: September 19, 2017, 11:12 pm
by Cy Kaicener (Posted Tue, 19 Sep 2017 23:04:44 GMT)
https://thehimalayantimes.com/nepal/rei ... ng-ascent/ -- Reinhold Messner visits base bamp as Simon Mesner prepares for Tare Khang (7069m) ascent

https://thehimalayantimes.com/nepal/mt- ... mn-summit/ -- Mt Manaslu records year's first autumn summit

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item/71 ... n_link_sar -- Tom Ballard and Daniele Nardi on Link Sar (7041m)

http://cys-hiking-adventures.blogspot.c ... ts-mt.html -- Cy K -- Updated

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Posted: September 19, 2017, 11:04 pm
by cab (Posted Tue, 19 Sep 2017 22:51:19 GMT)
I use Backcountry Navigator for my Android phone. It has completely replaced my separate GPS unit and works really well and has lots of different map layers. I paid a one-time $9.99 fee for the app several years ago, but I understand their pricing model may change for a new version they are rolling out. I think my one-time fee will continue to provide access to the app for a few more years, but I don't know that it will last forever.

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Posted: September 19, 2017, 10:51 pm
by clmbr (Posted Tue, 19 Sep 2017 19:43:38 GMT)
Here is some recent info about the route by Kurt Wedberg:
http://www.whitneyportalstore.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=83075&page=17

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Posted: September 19, 2017, 7:43 pm
by jedicolin (Posted Tue, 19 Sep 2017 15:27:34 GMT)
Remeasuring Mount Everest has Begun

Nepal has begun remeasuring Mount Everest to check if the height was altered by the earthquake that struck the nation in 2015, the government said on Friday.

Remeasuring Mount Everest has Begun

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Posted: September 19, 2017, 3:27 pm
by jedicolin (Posted Tue, 19 Sep 2017 15:26:30 GMT)
At least five rope-fixing Sherpas successfully stood atop Mt Manaslu on Monday morning becoming the first team to climb the world’s eighth highest peak in the autumn season, according to expedition organiser.

More at: The Himalayan Times

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Posted: September 19, 2017, 3:26 pm
by 395guy (Posted Tue, 19 Sep 2017 14:00:38 GMT)
I hope to come in from out of state to go up some collegiate peaks (Yale, Harvard, Columbia, Oxford, Belford, Missouri). Is there snow on the trails and summits already? If so, how deep.

I've never hiked in Colorado late in September like this. Are afternoon thunderstorms as common as in July?

What is the phone number for the Ranger Station in that area? Is there one in Buena Vista? Or Leadville?

Thanks in advance.

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Posted: September 19, 2017, 2:00 pm
by alpinbeta (Posted Tue, 19 Sep 2017 10:08:38 GMT)
Torre Quarta Alta added to Cinque Torri Group:

Torre Quarta Alta, Cinque Torri, Eastern Dolomites, Belluno, Italy


Image

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Posted: September 19, 2017, 10:08 am
by sealevelmick (Posted Mon, 18 Sep 2017 18:33:29 GMT)
hey there, this is a post i would be interested in hearing more in too but i can comment on the whites specifically as theyre something i know a little about (on my 3rd pair since 2000, well including nicks which are basically the same but whatev and also subbed in some danners, redwings, lowas, etc : ). So i have mainly used these in trail work, so daily use for months on end, and i love them, however they do have a niche application and not sure i would take them hiking but given some considerations to terrain, etc, here goes:
They are heavy as sin, i can put one on the scale if you need but yea. (also, i rock a size 13, but take a 13 or 14 in most running shoes, so thats how they run). That said, could i put on 20 miles days in them?- absolutely. Could i cruise at 3 and a half for a few hours?- for sure. Couldnt necessarily jog in them but, especially for humping big packs that, had i on sneakers, would be trying to bend my foot in half, yea whites are the best. Then again, they take some getting used to. They change your gait. If you are a heel striker, you might have some issues. Annd hella high arches (which i like) but if you have flat feet they will punish you. But yea, the boots themselves take weeks to break in (cant use them straight out of the box) and idk how long but your legs/knees/hips have to adjust too. Rambling on- they are really hard. So if you have to walk pavement for any amount of time forget it. Or even if you plan on doing lots of talus hopping, there are prolly better options. Although, in terms of actual climbing, they arent terrible- they are so stiff that you if can get the last inch of the toe on a lip you can usually push off it. whereas, with 'hiking boots' even sneakers, it seems sometimes like i have balloons on my feet. where conversely the whites were like having a pair of knives on down there. For steep soils and logs and that too they are very fast. Even, this is wierd : ), but after so many miles in them coming down a trail some days it felt like i was walking on a second set of arms lol or like i had some kind of orbital suction cup or something. idk maybe any other boots i wore as much would have felt the same but i think i can say somewhat objectively that the amount of wieght and support they confer would lower your slip rate over time...
uhh, lets see, as for breathability, yea tops. i wore them down in the deserts of southern california for a few summers, no problems whatsoever, i mean it, really it was hot, this is east of los angeles by about 3 hours in july/aug/sept no shade, all day. no issues. ive even pulled 10 mile hiking days in them without socks without issue when laundry day kinda snuck up on me, so they do really well in the heat. And theyre pretty dependable, once they are broken in, you know youre not going to have to worry about them, they are like the toyota corrolla of boots, haha, hope this isnt turning into a shameless plug!
and the i guess as far as cost and maintainence- i think my last pair were around 450 or so. And i end up putting new heels on every year or so (~$50), and then send them in for the complete rebuild (~300) like every 3 or 4. And then finally they for sure need to be oiled twice a year, so a can of huberds is like 10 bucks.
but yea, now that, this year, im not wearing them on a daily basis, im a little reluctant to take them out backpacking, just bc the adjustment period would be like the length of the trip, so am aslo in the market for an alternative and would like to see this thread progress.

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Posted: September 18, 2017, 6:33 pm
by runout (Posted Mon, 18 Sep 2017 13:27:29 GMT)
Ok, varnish...
But then ist's easy to do SSL on a SSL-offloading-proxy.
I do this on my servers anyways using a seperate VM for this.
If you need help - let me know.

see:
https://komelin.com/articles/https-varnish

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Posted: September 18, 2017, 1:27 pm
by Foxtail (Posted Mon, 18 Sep 2017 05:29:01 GMT)
I've used that pass a few times. It's a fine route, and saves a lot of time.

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Posted: September 18, 2017, 5:29 am
by 96avs01 (Posted Sun, 17 Sep 2017 19:49:52 GMT)
Many thanks! Heading over Taboose Pass this coming week with hopes of Arrow Peak and Mt. Ruskin. Definitely changing seasons and conditions. Cheers

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Posted: September 17, 2017, 7:49 pm

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