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by WyomingSummits (Posted Fri, 18 Aug 2017 23:54:46 GMT)
Yank-Tank wrote:
Basham wrote:Is mountaineering underrated? Your opponent is nature. It's possibly the most physically demanding of all. You don't get a ring for success. You don't have sponsors. It's not on TV. It's funded by the people who do it. It's probably the only sport that is done on every continent. It, in my opinion, is by far the most rewarding of all sports.

Not sure about the most physically demanding, don't forget about the ultra runners and the only reason that you don't have sponsors is because you probably aren't good enough, but many people do.

This is the thing about climbers, they all think they are hot stuff, but really it is just another sport.

Also not so sure where you come from but it is on tv here in my country.

I climb, but I climb solo and try to stay away from other climbers (weird crew). Most of them are way overly sensitive.

I agree with the ultra running. I'm an ultra runner/mountaineer and don't know many general mountaineers who clear 20,000ft of gain sub 30hrs who aren't also trail runners. Ultra running has made nearly every peak in the lower 48(not every route) basically a day trip for me.

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Posted: August 18, 2017, 11:54 pm
by Scott (Posted Fri, 18 Aug 2017 17:23:11 GMT)
I'd be interested.

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Posted: August 18, 2017, 5:23 pm
by Cy Kaicener (Posted Fri, 18 Aug 2017 16:33:56 GMT) ... mites.html -- Tre Cime di Lavaredo - rock climbing in the Dolomites ... orada.html -- Cordillera Blanca 2017 (Peru) - Resumen de temporada, gran escalada para Madoz, Torralles y Cararach
Cordillera Blanca 2017. Summary of the season, great climbing for Iker Madoz, Marc Toralles and Roger Cararach ... sauk-8h38/ -- seano -- Glacier Peak ( North Sauk) - Washington

http://cys-hiking-adventures.blogspot.c ... ts-by.html -- Cy K -- Updated

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Posted: August 18, 2017, 4:33 pm
by Bubba Suess (Posted Fri, 18 Aug 2017 15:06:19 GMT)
clmbr wrote:
mrchad9 wrote:... It is offensive how long it took the USFS to open the road up there... it has been closed for weeks for literally no justifiable reason at all...

"...literally no justifiable reason at all..." Are you sure about that? :o:oops::lol:

For what it is worth, the USFS does not actually determine when the road opens. The Everitt Memorial Highway is a county highway and is maintained by county road crews. They open and close the gate, as well as do the plowing up to Bunny Flat in the winter. This year the traditional date for the gate to open was pushed back from July 1st to some undetermined date because there was snow both on the road and on Panther Meadow. They typically open the gate when the snow has been gone from the meadow for a week or so to let it dry out before it starts getting trampled. This is usually prior to July 1st. This year it was near the end of July. However, all the county resources were by then committed to a chip-sealing project on Old Stage Road. Once they finished that they sent a crew over and cleared the rocks and logs that had drifted onto the road during winter. Then the gate was opened, 5 weeks after the normal date.

There certainly are problems at the Shasta-T, but the road opening is not one of them. They have to field the calls from people wanting to know when it opens, but they are actually powerless to open it themselves.

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Posted: August 18, 2017, 3:06 pm
by jedicolin (Posted Fri, 18 Aug 2017 14:18:05 GMT)
All Female Team for Everest 2018

Five Jordanian women who make up an all-female mountain climbing team have their sights set on climbing Mount Everest starting April 2018 and are doing it all in the name of female empowerment.

All Female Team for Everest 2018

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Posted: August 18, 2017, 2:18 pm
by Yank-Tank (Posted Fri, 18 Aug 2017 11:14:22 GMT)
Probably very similar Mountains 50,000 years ago, but sadly today they are two very uncomparable Mountains.

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Posted: August 18, 2017, 11:14 am
by normankirk (Posted Thu, 17 Aug 2017 18:51:07 GMT)

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Posted: August 17, 2017, 6:51 pm
by Jesus Malverde (Posted Thu, 17 Aug 2017 18:49:12 GMT)
You ask a really interesting question.
As no one has (yet) answered your query, I'd thought I'd try to jump in.
Note: I haven't done Fremont and have only seen it from a distance, but it's been on the bucket list for some time.

I realize you may have already done some/all of this, and what is below may not be much help, but here goes.

- Some dedicated Google Fu doesn't bring up anything on an Fremont Peak east face direct or east face variation. Note: I didn't spend a whole lot of time on this, and I might have missed something.

-Joe Kelsey's (2nd edtion, pgs. 174-177) book doesn't mention anything specific on east face routes.

- Bonney's book (1977, 3rd revised edition, pg. 417) has this, but I don't think it's really about any specific east face route:
"Rte 3. SE Ridge (called E in some accounts). I, 5.0, 1 asc 8 Aug1924, C. Blaurock, H. and Mrs. Buhl, A.R. Ellingwood. First climb by other than Rte 1. From Bull L Cr they crossed Fremont Gl finding dead grasshoppers in such numbers that "the air was as infected." From Titcomb Lks, climb to Sacagawea-Fremont col. Turn S, across eastern slopes of Upper Fremont Gl to point midway on SE Ridge. Cross bergschrund and climb snow up to SE ridge, then traverse the 2 gendarmes and up to the summit.

Variation. I, 4, 1 desc 14Aug1936, W.D. Howe, Thelma Bonney, Helen Spalding, K.A. Henderson. From Indian Pass (187) circle northwesterly across Knife Point Gl, climbing a steep rotten couloir to gain Upper Fremont Gl. Then as in Rte 3 to summit. (Descent: 8 hrs)."

- Apparently (and perhaps oddly) American Alpine Journal's online search doesn't reveal anything specific about any east face direct/variation route(s) on Fremont Peak:

Have you tried contacting Joe Kelsey directly and asking him?
I think you may be able to contact him through Falcon Press.
Globe Pequot
246 Goose Lane
Guilford, CT 06357
Email: [email protected]

Also, there may be some Old School folks in Jackson or outlying areas that may have something buried in the back of their heads. You may be able to work the Carabiner Telegraph to get some contacts; the climbing community is closer/tighter than we sometimes realize. FWIW, the current folks (and alumni/retirees) over at Exum/JHMG may be able to get you an answer, lead or contact.
If you haven't done so already, you could post over at SuperTopo's forums and see if you get any bites as well.

Hopefully there is a simple answer out there and someone with some knowledge will see this thread and jump in here.
Good luck and if you make an recon/attempt/ascent please post back your picts, findings/TR, etc.
P.S. I'll ask around some of my contacts going forward and see if I can't come up with something more substantive. Will post back here if I find out anything.

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Posted: August 17, 2017, 6:49 pm
by seano (Posted Thu, 17 Aug 2017 18:04:28 GMT)
It's pretty amazing that the path of totality goes over so many popular peaks, including Jefferson, Borah, and the Grand. Like Matt, I plan to be on a peak, but am smart enough to avoid the popular ones.

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Posted: August 17, 2017, 6:04 pm
by garburator (Posted Thu, 17 Aug 2017 17:53:40 GMT)
When will the partner finder be fixed so it actually works? I've tried a couple of times and it's bad, gives longitudal lines way off base. I like much better than because it has the true spirit of the mountains, and mountainproject has very little "mountain" in it, but want to use the partner finder to its advantage.

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Posted: August 17, 2017, 5:53 pm
by stinkysox77 (Posted Thu, 17 Aug 2017 13:52:39 GMT)
With Monday's total eclipse passing directly over the tetons and winds, what's the over under on accidental deaths on Monday? I suspect that the tetons will be reasonably controlled by the nps, but in the winds (specifically Gannett, Fremont, and most Titcomb peaks) to be completely overrun. My guess is that someone falls off the snowbridge on Gannett, gets swallowed up by the glacier, and that someone stumbles over the NE face of Fremont. Hope it doesn't happen, but with people these days everything is possible.

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Posted: August 17, 2017, 1:52 pm
by Yank-Tank (Posted Thu, 17 Aug 2017 12:06:29 GMT)
Oh well, will have to wait a few years and go there. It would be good if you could predict earthquakes, then it would just be like, ok Daria lets go and climb Mt Dixon right now. We need big big big rockfall.


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Posted: August 17, 2017, 12:06 pm
by Jesus Malverde (Posted Wed, 16 Aug 2017 19:20:54 GMT)
Don't forget your shovel and toilet paper. You're gonna love it. :)

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Posted: August 16, 2017, 7:20 pm
by bscott (Posted Tue, 15 Aug 2017 23:57:45 GMT)
mrchad9 wrote:Yes those people are probably the same people who care about human life so much they won't let you get an abortion... but once you have the baby they couldn't give a fuck about it or you. You are on your own even if you can't afford it the could not care less.

i was just thinking to myself that sp hadn't been political enough lately.

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Posted: August 15, 2017, 11:57 pm
by Scott (Posted Tue, 15 Aug 2017 22:52:26 GMT)
jedicolin wrote:
There is no age limit imposed on anyone wanting to climb Mont Blanc

I am suprised at that. I would not want my kids climbing that high at the age of 9!

If you take time to acclimatize (which is very important), it should be reasonable, as long as you are careful and heed any signs of trouble or sickness.

My kids were climbing in places ~1000 meters higher than Mont Blanc at that age:

It must be mentioned though that our primary residence was at 2000 meters and for many summers we live at or near 3000 meters (currently 2973 for me) and for each of those trips we spent several days (or weeks) acclimatizing.

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Posted: August 15, 2017, 10:52 pm
by mrchad9 (Posted Tue, 15 Aug 2017 22:41:53 GMT)
You will go blind if you use those Josh.

Like nickmech says... if you have the correct glasses when you put them on it is total blackness unless you look directly at the sun. If you can see through your glacier glasses then they are not dark enough.

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Posted: August 15, 2017, 10:41 pm
by Alpinist (Posted Tue, 15 Aug 2017 22:33:02 GMT)
Join the American Alpine Club and CAMP USA in Baraboo, WI this October 13th to 15th for the third annual Midwest climbing extravaganza, the Devil's Lake Craggin’ Classic!

This 3-day, grassroots climbing festival is a true celebration of all things climbing, featuring speakers, clinics, comps, local and national gear reps, slideshows, and stewardship projects that define our sport and our community.

The 2017 Craggin’ Classic features a full line-up of climbing clinics taught by pro athletes and Devil’s Lake Climbing Guides; a Bouldering Competition sponsored by the Wisconsin Climbers Association and dozens of industry brands; a Trad Climbing Competition, sponsored by Wisconsin Climbers Association and Black Diamond; a Climber Party featuring food by Madison’s Underground Food Collective and beer from Sixpoint Brewery. Additionally, you’ll enjoy silent auctions with incredible deals on top-end gear and, on Sunday, a free volunteer breakfast followed by a variety of local crag stewardship projects. We'll be working with the Ice Age Trail Alliance to shore up and re-route the Balanced Rock Trail, along with a number of other projects to improve and enhance our beloved Devil’s Lake State Park.

Additional details and registration can be found here.

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Posted: August 15, 2017, 10:33 pm
by Alpinist (Posted Tue, 15 Aug 2017 22:29:54 GMT)
For new or prospective members, don't miss this rare chance to meet long-time club members who may no longer be participating in active club outings, and to make new friends. This is always our biggest and most popular event of the summer season. Come join us!!

The Chicago Mountaineering Club will be supplying the pulled pork, buns, and corn on the cob. Everybody please bring a side dish, salad, or dessert to share. Dinner will start at 6:00 on Saturday, but the fun will be going on all weekend.

The Annual Picnic is held at the CMC Campground on Burma Rd. at Devils Lake State Park, WI.

This is a very popular event, so please keep vehicles parked tight to the driveway to maximize room for tents.

Potlucks are a fabulous opportunity to impress your climbing friends with your culinary skills!

Photographers are welcome to share their bounty from the weekend with the rest of the club by forwarding them to Kevin Field at [email protected] to include in the Newsletter. News (and condolences) from any distant members who will not be able to attend can also be forwarded to Kevin.

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Posted: August 15, 2017, 10:29 pm
by stinkysox77 (Posted Tue, 15 Aug 2017 19:22:04 GMT)
norco17 wrote:People are so dumb. We really just need to let the bodies pile up on that peak.

After a decade, there would be a new worlds tallest peak.

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Posted: August 15, 2017, 7:22 pm
by rajeshkh (Posted Tue, 15 Aug 2017 17:22:32 GMT)
Thanks a lot Fedek.

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Posted: August 15, 2017, 5:22 pm
by Yank-Tank (Posted Tue, 15 Aug 2017 10:51:13 GMT)
It doesn't look like they are going to make it out alive. ... t.95785759

"The longer these young men remain in these conditions, the less likely it is that they will survive."

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Posted: August 15, 2017, 10:51 am