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by Josh Lewis (Posted Tue, 28 Feb 2017 06:48:38 GMT)
I use the last hole on my ice climbing crampons with plastic boots, haven't noticed an issue. 8) I too had the same concern but have had good results with it.

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Posted: February 28, 2017, 6:48 am
by ksolem (Posted Tue, 28 Feb 2017 04:12:45 GMT)
Hi all, I'm doing slide shows at three L.A. area REI stores in March. The Needles section will include some elements from the guidebook, and I have the generous permission of several of the finest photographers of our sport, Greg Epperson, Kevin Powell, and Jim Thornburg to show some of their images as well. Then I'll show pictures from three trips to the Gorge of Despair, in King's Canyon's back country. Over the course of those trips we did many of the old classic routes, established a new 5.11 called From Afar, self rescued when Guy Keesee wrecked his knee, and finally did the FA of Despairadoes, a nine pitch 5.12 on the Silver Turret.

There will be guidebooks available, and I can sign them too.


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Posted: February 28, 2017, 4:12 am
by WyomingSummits (Posted Tue, 28 Feb 2017 03:36:55 GMT)
Owen Spalding on the Grand gets soloed all the time. The memorials on that route are due to roped accidents. I bet more people have died on the 4th class section than free soloing the 5th class....which it's a stretch even calling alot of that route 5th class. Still....People die. It's life.

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Posted: February 28, 2017, 3:36 am
by rgg (Posted Mon, 27 Feb 2017 22:32:05 GMT)
nartreb wrote:PS this should really be in the Technique & Training forum, no? Or are you asking what gear you'll actually need?

Actually that's exactly where Elation first posted it. I didn't think it was a bad place for it but considered Gear more suitable, so I moved it there. But I don't mind being outvoted, so I've moved it back.

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Posted: February 27, 2017, 10:32 pm
by jedicolin (Posted Mon, 27 Feb 2017 19:18:00 GMT)
Everest Winter Climb Restarts

Alex Txikon is now back at Mount Everest Base Camp to restart his winter climb to the top of the world without using bottled oxygen.

Mount Everest Winter Climb Restarts

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Posted: February 27, 2017, 7:18 pm
by normankirk (Posted Mon, 27 Feb 2017 17:24:29 GMT)
Basic fleece bibs with full length double toggle side zippers. Size medium, short length, for height under 71". From top chest hem to cuff hem is 38-1/2". Adjust the suspenders for more or less leg length. Nothing fancy - Not articulated, ergonomic 3-Dimensional (e3D) patterned or athletic cut. Cut full throughout with the chest fitting 37"-41". 100% polyester, Polartec fleece. Bottom leg hem has an 18" circumference for fitting over ski or ice climbing boots. Best when worn over at least light weight underwear because there is no inside zipper flap and the plastic feels cold. As new. Asking $30.00 shipped. F and F paypal or please add 4%.



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Posted: February 27, 2017, 5:24 pm
by Gangolf Haub (Posted Mon, 27 Feb 2017 07:35:06 GMT)
Selakano to Dikti / Afentis Christos, Route to the two highest summits of the Dikti Range on Crete


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Posted: February 27, 2017, 7:35 am
by I man (Posted Mon, 27 Feb 2017 04:04:39 GMT)
Hello Smokeny - yes the expedition is going to happen and we are still looking for members. Feel free to send me an email. mgrabina at gmail.

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Posted: February 27, 2017, 4:04 am
by 96avs01 (Posted Mon, 27 Feb 2017 01:07:25 GMT)
eastcoastarmy wrote:The cerium sv blows for the money

No kidding, just looked at the MSRP...damn! Several products from Feathered Friends and Western Mountaineering would seem to be far cheaper and perform as well if not better. Don't get me wrong, there's a few pieces of 'dead bird' gear that I've grabbed on clearance that I love...but down is not something I typically associate with them. EB's suggestion of the FitzRoy seems like a great deal. And I'd quite happily have my RAB Neutrino Endurance over the Cerium SV for price and performance (especially since it very rarely ever gets used).

OP, I think if you laid out your short-term and long-term goals that might help.

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Posted: February 27, 2017, 1:07 am
by crucificatorul (Posted Sun, 26 Feb 2017 22:25:07 GMT)
Can anyone please recommend a local agency that they've used for Mera or Island Peak? I'm not looking for 5* services that require selling my kidney. ( ex jagged-globe). Thank you.

ps: Has anyone used Nepal Trekking Tourism & Adventure P Ltd ?

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Posted: February 26, 2017, 10:25 pm
by crucificatorul (Posted Sun, 26 Feb 2017 22:17:18 GMT)
Hiring a guide for Gouter route is a waste of money. It's easy and pretty straight forward. On the other hand you should have enough experience to get yourself up and down the mountain. Which means you're better of paying for a winter course in Scotland. That will teach you how to proper use crampons, self arrest and ropework. Know how to use a compass and a map. And be useful for the future.

Also you don't need a week. 4 days is plenty of time to get acclimatised and spend another night at either Tet Rouse or Gouter. Summit in the morning and come back down to the valley. You can even catch a flight later that evening.

Trail should be more than obvious as there are way too many people climbing it. But don't rely entirely on that as a strong wind or wideout can get you in trouble. You can use a GPS unit as well.

Pay for a guide to learn rather than be dragged up the mountain!

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Posted: February 26, 2017, 10:17 pm
by nader (Posted Sun, 26 Feb 2017 19:33:37 GMT)
I adopted, completely rewrote, added pictures and GPS track on "Grand Loop" page for Palo Duro Canyon in Texas:

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Posted: February 26, 2017, 7:33 pm
by Cy Kaicener (Posted Sun, 26 Feb 2017 16:31:12 GMT) ... her/993308 -- Antonio Gianni -- Italy-- The main routes of Aiguille de la Grande Sassiere, Rutor, Grande Rousse, Monte Berio Blanc etc ... er=1154084 -- Winter Ascent of N.E.Buttress of the West Lion in British Columbia

http://cys-hiking-adventures.blogspot.c ... italy.html -- Cy K -- Updated

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Posted: February 26, 2017, 4:31 pm
by eastcoastarmy (Posted Sun, 26 Feb 2017 14:42:10 GMT)
Depends on the conditions I suppose... I don't have much experience with heavy snow or in alpine conditions like EB does, but from 10yrs of AT hiking and east coast climbing in driving miserable rain, Gore Tex Pro shells are the only ones that will not leak through the seams eventually. I've gone through Marmots, TNF, Eddie Bauer, all sorts of seam taped "shells" and most all of them have the breathability of a paper bag in comparison to GTX Pro (gotta be a lightweight hardshell though). It is ungodly wet over here though, insanely high humidity and days of rain are not uncommon. I've had my gore tex wet out plenty of times in high wear areas, especially the shoulders and around my hands where I'm climbing and grabbing stuff, but it has never leaked through. I'll wear a gray base layer underneath it and you can plainly see if it leaked at the seams or anywhere.... I would imagine though, in anything but driving nasty rain, as long as you have a good DWR finish on it, it should bead just fine for you... I bought my hardshell gore tex 3 years ago and it looks like the day I bought it, seriously.

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Posted: February 26, 2017, 2:42 pm
by TheBootfitter (Posted Sun, 26 Feb 2017 09:22:10 GMT)
Yep, the Scarpa Phantom 8000. We'll be starting our climb on Apri 29, so I wanted to err on the conservative side of warmth. I actually have the Palau liners from the LS Baruntse inside, as I felt they offered a more secure fit around my feet. With the thermoforming and a few c and l shaped pads to fill in gaps, I was able to get the fit dialed in pretty well. So far, they have been great. Plus, I got them on STP for a steal at under $400. (I had sold my plastic Koflachs with a Denali intuition liner several years ago, or I may have just used those instead.)

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Posted: February 26, 2017, 9:22 am
by Bob Burd (Posted Sun, 26 Feb 2017 00:12:20 GMT)
It's class 5 if you stay on the ridgeline between the two, but only class 2-3 if you don't mind dropping 1,000ft or so. From this TR:

In turning my energies towards Trojan, I had a decision to make. Though but a mile distant, the straight line route involved a gap some 1,500ft below Trojan's summit across the middle of the high plateau. Losing all that elevation looked demoralizing. The ridgeline connecting the two peaks dropped maybe a third of this elevation, and the hike from the saddle to Trojan's summit looked straightforward from my vantage. The difficulty in this second approach was the jagged ridgeline between Barnard's summit and the saddle - Secor and others suggest dropping down a 1,000ft to avoid difficulties. So naturally I disregarded the sage advise and chose to attempt to follow the ridge. I was still ahead of the others (Matthew had yet to reach Trojan's summit and Michael was somewhere below me on the face) I reasoned, and could afford some wasted time attempting the ridge - who knows - maybe I'd "discover" a class 3 route. That was all so much wishful thinking, and for a good while I was able to continue the delusion with some success. But the hardest obstacles where closer to the saddle than to Barnard's summit, and so after messing around for 45 minutes or so (actually, there was some enjoyable class 3 along the way), I came upon large, tooth-like monoliths that had class 5 all over them with no apparent way around. The west side of the ridgeline was mostly cliff, while the east side was a steep cover of snow. So on went the crampons, out came the axe, and I proceeded to lose all the elevation I'd fought against. I made a downward traverse to well below the height of the saddle, covering as much distance in 10 minutes as I'd made in the previous 45. I was now staring up 1,000ft to Trojan's summit. I had spotted Michael nearing the Barnard's summit as I removed my crampons, maybe another 15 minutes to go. Matthew as near as I could tell was taking a long break up on Trojan's summit.

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Posted: February 26, 2017, 12:12 am